An ode to street meat

Within this post I am going to try not to simply gush over my two latest Chinese culinary faves; street sandwiches.

The Sketchy Wrap

I had my first experience with the SW way back in October. Jen and Gini took Lizzie and myself to a very large indoor market that sold anything and everything. Outside the market the streets are lined with vendors selling bags, cleaning supplies, bedding, and other such trinkets. There are also vendors selling different varieties of street "delicacies". Jen and Gini being veterans knew the ideal vendor to stop at for a wrap. Had we not been with Jen and Gini I would never would have guessed that something like a sandwich or wrap was made at these stands. They look like the rusted, dirty, grimy, China version of Dickie Dee stands, though bigger and situated, with no fun little jingle to get you excited. There is a case full of veggies on sticks; eggplant, peppers (hot and sweet), tofu, lettuce, cabbage, bok choy, mushrooms, green onion etc. Beneath the case is a vat of boiling oil, a small table with a cutting board, and two bowls of sauce (one hot, and one peanut). You have the option of either chicken or sausage. You make your choices, the “chef” adds everything to the oil and uses scissors to chop it all up. It takes mere minutes to make. Everything is thrown into a large tortilla style wrap, sauce is added and you’re good to go.

Trying street meat, street anything in China is nerve wracking. The cleanliness is questionable. In fact, saying that it is questionable at all is really just to comfort myself. It is fact that it is not clean in any way. Everything is made so quickly so there is a chance that unwelcome bacteria will take over your body at any moment, and you’re day will be over with you on the toilet. This all being said, though, the SW is really, really good. AND cheap cheap! Only 7 yuan, and it’s a hefty portion. I’ve realized now that there are wrap stands just about everywhere. I suppose I just never knew what they were before. A couple months ago Greg and I found one right outside the main grocery store in Fangzi. win.


Street Sandwich (formerly referred to as Seth’s Sandwich)

In town there is a small stand (much more credible than the  Sketchy Wrap stand) that sells snacks, gum, drinks etc. We had noticed that it also advertised some weird, unappetizing looking sandwich. Seth was the first to try to the sandwich on his own in town one day and shared his discovery with us. Amazingly delicious, and only 4 yuan for one. The picture does not make the sandwich look tasty or inviting at all. So, I put off trying it for awhile until out of poorness Greg and I needed to take the plunge and get our hands on these warlocks. Possibly one of the best food discoveries in Weifang. This ridiculously good, flavorful sandwich is overstuffed with chicken chunks, topped with lettuce and marinated in some scrumptious brown sauce and hot sauce all in the nice package of a deep fried flat bun. Ohmygod makes my mouth water just thinking about it. When the guys came to visit we ate our fair share these sandwiches.

And, to make our lives of street sandwich love that much more exciting is, there is a stand near the grocery store in Fangzi. These sandwiches are only 3 yuan, and not as delicious as the originals in town. But, they are still good.
I enjoy that eating in China is affordable, and delicious. Especially when you least expect it.

 I’m hungry.

The good, the bad, the China

While we were only away from China for two weeks, the return felt comparable to how I imagine Dorothy actually felt upon leaving technicolor Oz and returning to Kansas. There are so many things that I like about living in China. But, leaving for a little while made me notice certain unfavorable China traits that the country (well, the very small portion that I’ve seen) possess.

1. Lack of color. True the overwhelming grey in Weifang is due to the extensive smog. Though, it seems that even beyond the skies the country is experiencing pigment deficiency. China is generally pretty dry (at least where we are) so it seems there is a thin layer of dust covering, well, everything. This doesn’t help the “color” problem.

2. Seeing green, or, not. The most welcome, wonderful thing for me (besides the warmth) in Thailand was the abundance of green. It is nearing the end of winter, so granted most trees don’t have any leaves right now. But, even during lovelier times, China is lacking in green. Even in Bangkok, Thailand there were examples of flora everywhere. Living in China I find myself mourning, nature.

3. The stares. Uh, yep, I’m foreign. I’m not from here. So, obviously I need to be stared at uncomfortably as if I were from Mars. Beijing is touristy so the “stares” we receive aren’t as noticeable, or quite as much. Weifang though, and Fangzi, oh jesus! Thailand is so touristy. Like, so so so touristy. I was nothing special. I had forgotten about the stares until one instance when Greg and I were at the grocery store in Fangzi where we noticed an older woman so uncouthly staring at me, bug eyed, and nervous. I don’t bite. Promise.

4. Smoke… cigarette smoke… in the face. Neither Greg or I are cigarette smokers. I don’t mind if people smoke around me generally. It’s really not something that bothers me. Living in my old apartment, for those who know… I mean, comman… you would need a tolerance for smoke.  In China though, it’s a whole other story. Even the most lenient of people could have a problem with the smoke. Most people are quite rude about it, and have no problem smoking anywhere and everywhere, and blowing their smoke right in your face. What’s worse is this multiplied by dozens of people in a crowd. No matter where you turn, you will have smoke all up in your business.

5. Don’t push. I have a difficult time being too too angry about the pushing and shoving of Chinese people. The only reason is because it is merely a cultural thing. It’s not meant to be rude at all. Everyone pushes and shoves. Everyone. We were reminded of this at the airport. We were waiting to board our plane back to China, and for the first time in two weeks were surrounded by Chinese people. Our gate was different from the other gates at the airport. The other gates had orderly lines full of patient people waiting to board. Our gate was a sector of impatient pushers throwing their bows all over the place (unintentionally of course). Unless you join in the brigade of thrusting and shoulder rubbing, you will be left behind.

6. Dirty. It’s no secret that China is very dirty. Walking down the street I’m pretty sure we ingest various ailments. It was nice to breath in fresh air in Thailand. It was nice to blow my nose and not have dust come out. It was also nice to not have some strange cough uncaused by sickness, but by pollution for two weeks.

I do enjoy living in China. But, there are some annoying things that come with the culture. Unfortunately.

Spring festival and sketchy times in Beijing

To preface this post, I would just like to take a moment to apologize. Apologize for not only neglecting this blog but for updating it quickly and without much thought. Since before Christmas, life has seemed slightly whirlwindish (more on that later). And, as I sit here in my bottom bunk of the Sunwest Guesthouse hostel in Thailand (I’ll get to that later), I can’t help but feel the pull to recount my tales to you, reader. Thank you for taking the time to read about mine and Greg’s life there and for taking an interest in us until we are back again.
Onto the happenings.

Spring Festival is a yearly holiday. It happens every year around Chinese New Year. Greg and I, being the lucky little foreigners we are, get a six week vacation during this time. Our last day of teaching was December 31st, and we are off of work until February 13th.

Our Spring Festival started off with New Years eve on Saturday. That morning all teachers from Beihei gathered in the cafeteria for lunch and some teacher appreciation (each staff member received a gift of 100 yuan). For the most part we just mingled, and ate and “gala-ed”. In the afternoon the teachers at Beihei (not including the foreign teachers) put on a show. It was hilarious (from what I saw). It was all in Chinese. I didn’t actually stay for the whole thing because I wasn’t feeling too well, but Greg did and said it was good… from what he could understand.

2012 started off great. The foreign teachers, Greg and I went out for dinner at the Mayflower restaurant. It’s a fancier restaurant in Weifang, but definitely worth the money. My mom and dad had sent Greg and I Christmas crackers from Canada that we hadn’t used yet, so I brought them along to the dinner. Of course, we followed dinner with a trip to SoHo, and ofcourse, I had the time of my life. Everyone seemed to have a great time actually. If you looked around at any of us, you would see a huge smile covering everyone’s faces. Everyone was dancing, and drinking, and singing and having a wonderful time. At one point just after midnight, I had a “my god! I can’t believe I live in China and this is my life”. I looked over at Greg’s smiley face, and looked at my new Chinese friends, Lizzie and Seth and felt so happy. It’s a shame that we could not also be surrounded by Ottawa friends, and have the ability to call our families at midnight. Never the less, the year started off on a good foot.
The beginning of Spring Festival was spent mostly hanging around with my new Chinese friends, Lizzie, Greg, and Seth. Our friends from SoHo were to be leaving soon and I wanted to get in as much time as possible with them as I could. All was well worth it, and goodbyes were said. I know I have made a good friend in Maymay, who happens to be one of the sweetest people I know. And, I don’t doubt that Greg and Slos will keep in contact. I regularly miss them along with Jerry and his hilarity, Rita and her loving demeanor, and Hyde’s coolness. Lizzie, Greg and I were most said to say goodbye I think. But, all three of us are so happy to have been able to be apart of their lives.

On Wednesday January 11th, I took the train to Beijing to pick up three (amazing) pals from the airport– arriving from Ottawa. Ryan, Dan, and Derek were to arrive between 5 and 11 that night. I could not be more excited. From when I arrived in Beijing things were not going quite as smoothly as they could have been. Lizzie (who accompanied me because she was flying to India from Beijing) and I took a cab from the train station to the airport. Which lasted over an hour long. We watched at the meter kept rising and rising. Ending in a 130+ yuan fee. Also, the driver tried not to give us our change. No matter, we went in, Lizzie found her gate and she was off. I was on a mission to find out which terminals the boys would be arriving in, which was simple enough. And, the wait started. Ryan and Dan were on the same delayed flight so I ended up waiting a little longer that I had anticipated, but it was worth it. Seeing Ryan’s Sens hat poke out behind the entrance and Dan’s smiling face made me feel so happy! Derek’s flight was coming in later so we found our way to his terminal and waited. Again, seeing Derek made me so happy! Familiar faces!!! Upon being with them for no longer than 10minutes I forgot I was in China. It was as if I had never been away at all. The jokes were the same. Felt good.

Here is where the “fun” begins.

We waiting in a taxi line at the airport for a cab. A woman working at the airport motions for us to go to a taxi. So, we do. The taxi, though looking different from the other taxi’s, has a “Taxi” sign on it. We get in, tell him where we are going (the train station in hopes of getting a train at our late hour) and we go. After about 25 minutes we arrive at Beijing South train station, the cab driver lifts a card covering the meter and displays the price, 460 yuan. This ride should have cost us no more than 80 yuan (at the absolute most). He shows an airport card with fees on it. In the words of Derek, we were fleeced! None of us were happy to have been obviously fooled. I was particularly angry because I knew for a fact that it should not be that price, and had been trying to catch a glimpse of the meter for part of the ride.

Trying to brush off the unfortunate cab price, we go into the train station. The deserted, bereft of warmth, very closed train station. I had asked my boss earlier in the day if train ran most of the night, he said yes. He was wrong. We walked around trying to figure out what to do. We would need to stay in a hotel because it felt sketchy to sleep in the station. Also, it would freezing. So, we tried to find an exit. An easy enough task. Wrong. We were locked in. Locked in the train station! Eventually we had found someone who worked there, a guard I presume, who walked us outside. We tried asking him for help to find a taxi or where we could get a hotel. But, despite his best efforts, he was of no real help. Luckily, a white dude happened to walk by us as we were pacing the outside of the station. The French native, immaculate speaking English guy, just so happened to also be fluent in Chinese. He helped us find a taxi AND a hotel, sort of.

A grey van on the cusp of breaking down drives up. Our ride. The four of us climb in. Derek and Ryan get actual seats in the back while Dan is left to sit on the floor. I took the front seat in hopes that my very small amount of Chinese could help (it didn’t). The driver and the white guy are chatting away in Chinese, both on their phones calling other people, talking in …. Chinese. The whole situation began to feel very uncomfortable, and all around sketchy. We all had our guard up. I had a death grip on my belongings, with my passport and money zipped tight in my  pocket, and cell phone in my hand. The white guy tells us that the driver will take us to a hotel not far from the station. We thank him a bunch of times and leave. All four of us thinking the same thing, are we about to live a scene out of the movie Taken? Am I going to die tonight? Where in the hell is this dude taking us?

We arrive at some sleezy hotel. And, of course are overcharged for two rooms (one room was not an option, and we were all hesitant to argue with the men handling our dealings at this point). We get our rooms; Dan and Derek in one, Ryan and I in another. The cab driver walks into mine and Ryans room, and holds out his hand for money. I assumed the ride would cost no more than maybe, maybeeeeee 30 yuan. In my mind I had planned to give him a little extra for taking us to the hotel at such a late hour and what not. he demands 200 yuan. 200! At this point, as a person who rarely feels scared, I felt highly uncomfortable. These men were dealing with us just did not make me feel as ease. We paid him the 200, and that was that. I called Greg who was in Weifang to help make me feel better. At this point it was almost 3 in the morning and we wanted to be awake at 6:30 to get a 7:45 train. I slept for a total of maybe 30minutes that night.

Thursday did not introduce an effortlessness. We woke up and scoured the streets for a taxi. After about 10 mins we get one, get inside and I type into my translator Beijing Train Station South. He says OK, and away we go. The night before we were all tired, but were awake enough to know that the ride to the station should take no more than 10 mins, which is why were were confused when it took us nearly half an hour to get there. BUT the main said yes when we told him where to go, so we were trusting him. We arrive at a train station, that doesn’t really look familiar, except for the sign that says “Beijing Railway”. At this point we’ve missed the 7:45 train to Weifang. This day is was freezing. The guys were saying it felt colder than Ottawa. After moving from line to line (outside), and waiting in various lines for nearly an hour we come to the obvious conclusion that we are probably at the wrong train station. Oh, and right we were. We got the name of the correct station written for us in Chinese and found a gypsy cab.

Another 50 yuan later, and we are at our destination. AND bought tickets to Weifang. I was honestly elated! The stress associated with the previous 12 hours was enough to make me feel like I had been away from home, and from Greg forever. I could not wait to get back, to introduce the guys to Weifang and get away from Beijing.

After a 4-5 hour train ride, we arrived.

More on Ryan, Derek and Dan’s visit to come.

Merry Christmarrrsss Part 3: Christmas with Grenica!

Christmas in China turned out to be quite successful, and less stressful than I had initially anticipated.

Greg and I started the day in a Christmas spirit stupor! Despite being on the other side of the world my affection for the holiday did not waver. We exchanged gifts. I skped with my family, and it was down to business. As quickly as I could I tried to tidy the apartment that Greg and I worked hard to clean the day before, get ready for our many guests, and start to cook!

Lizzie and Seth came over early in the afternoon to help with everything. We exchanged gifts and stocking stuffers. I was getting excited for Christmas dinner and our new friends who would be joining us to arrive, but, was still nervous as shit that I would screw up the cooking. I’ve never made dinner for this many people, Christmas dinner no less. Greg, Seth, Lizzie and I worked as a well oiled machine, and I think it all turned all pretty fricken great. I ended up making: a pot roast, butter chicken, shrimp/pork/broccoli curry, mashed potatoes (which were a group effort between Greg, Lizzie and I), salad (made by Greg), rice, and a stew thing with beef and carrots (it was originally supposed to be gravy but I messed it up a bit and made a last minute decision), Lizzie also made brownies that we forgot to eat at dinner… but I wasn’t complaining. The four of us ate them when everyone left, and they were damn good!

Our friends started to show up around 5:30. Slos and Maymay, Rita and Hyde, Jerry, Gangzai, Kamen and his girlfriend whose name I don’t know. The majority of them said they absolutely loved the food and were so gratuitous!! It made me feel so great (even if they were lying). Jerry walked in like he owned the place, so excited to be there. He brought us bottles of wine and champagne, and Angry Bird piggy banks for gifts. Slos, Maymay, Rita and Hyde kept telling us how amazing they thought everything was and how much they appreciated the four of us and how we invited them over. Though, really, it was our treat.

They brought tequila, and so the girls did a Christmas shot (or two). Our friends had to leave to go to work (at SoHo). And, while Seth, Lizzie and I were pretty much ready to go, Greg needed a little convincing. Maymay and Hyde made it their mission to get Greg out.

SoHo on Christmas. Weird. Not traditional at all. But, it ended up being one of the best night I think I’ve had there.

All in all, Christmas in China was great. It was no Ottawa Christmas with the Bansie’s, but it was a pretty swell substitute I’d say.